World

'This city is the best in Italy and a food capital of the world – I come back every year'


View of Genoa from Castello D'Albertis

Genoa is one of my favourite places to visit on the planet. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

I am fully aware that Italy is filled with stunning towns and cities, but I have a particular favourite that will forever have my heart.

To me, it is the most beautiful city in the country, and I find myself returning to it time and time again.

I can only describe it as a breathtaking yet underrated gem with an English connection and surprisingly few tourists.

My wife and I make a point of visiting every year – it has become somewhat of a tradition.

Located in Liguria in Northern Italy,  Genoa is perched on the Ligurian coast. The surroundings are one of the many reasons it is the best place to visit in Italy.

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The view from the mountains overlooking Genoa

The view from the mountains overlooking Genoa and Stadio Luigi Ferraris. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

Boccadasse in Genoa

Boccadasse is a stunning neighbourhood in Genoa right on the coast. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

Official figures show that Genoa welcomes around three million tourists annually, but that number is slightly misleading.

As a major port, many cruise ships stop there briefly before moving on, meaning the city itself remains relatively quiet – especially outside the centre.

It offers everything from breathtaking mountain hikes to gorgeous beaches with crystal-clear waters.

One of the most fascinating sites in Genoa is its jaw-dropping cemetery called Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno – it is so large it even has its own bus.

Perched on a hillside, it is home to huge tombs that look like churches and castles. You could easily spend a whole day walking around all the eerie yet beautiful monuments.

The city’s mountains also provide incredible views, including a stunning vantage point over Stadio Luigi Ferraris – a stadium shared by Genoa FC of Serie A and Sampdoria of Serie B.

Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

One of the tombs at the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

Genoa is also home to amazing castles, many of which have been transformed into museums.

For just around £5, visitors can explore the historic fortresses and take in breathtaking views from their towers.

Genoa also has a deep-rooted English connection, particularly when it comes to football.

The northern Italian port city, which was also the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, has long had ties to England.

Genoa Cricket & Athletic Club was founded by British expatriates in 1893 and is now the oldest active football club in Italy.

Its patron was diplomat Sir Charles Payton, and its first president was Charles De Grave Sells.

The house of Christopher Columbus in Genoa

The house of Christopher Columbus in Genoa. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

Graffiti on Genoa's stadium

Graffiti on Genoa’s stadium depicting Christopher Columbus’ house and English flags. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

James Richardson Spensley, a doctor from Stoke Newington in London, also played a big role in shaping the club’s footballing history, securing six league titles in the late 19th century.

To this day, Genoa FC’s emblem bears the English flag. I have become a huge fan of the club myself and try to go to as many games as possible. Although as a Tottenham fan I do not particularly enjoy singing ‘You’ll never walk alone,’ which is one of Genoa’s anthems.

Genoa’s most famous historical figure, Christopher Columbus, also has a strong presence in the city.

His childhood home still stands in the centre and can be visited, and numerous statues and landmarks are dedicated to him – including the airport, which bears his name.

However, perhaps the most important reason to visit Genoa is its claim to being the pesto capital of the world.

Pesto originates from Genoa, and the difference in quality is almost indescribable.

The view from Castello D'Albertis

The view from Castello D’Albertis. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

The main piazza in Genoa

Fountain in the main piazza of Genoa. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

The vibrant green hue is unlike the pesto commonly found in the UK, and the flavour – rich with cheese and fresh basil – is absolutely incredible.

It is perfect on bread, pasta, or even fried cheese sticks.

Genoa even hosts the World Pesto Championships, and there is one restaurant in particular that stands out when it comes to the delicious sauce.

Hidden in the city centre, Il Genovese is known as the birthplace of pesto.

My wife and I went there for Valentine’s Day this year, and we had nothing but pesto – pasta with pesto, bread with pesto, fried cheese with pesto, everything with pesto!

Genoa’s love for pesto even extends to its airport, which allows passengers to carry jars of the sauce in their hand luggage, bypassing the usual 100ml liquid restriction.

Pesto genovese sauce

Genovese pesto. (Image: Getty)

The centre of Genoa

The centre of Genoa. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

Genoa promenade

The promenade along the coast in Genoa. (Image: Kris Boratyn)

Passengers can bring jars up to 500g, provided they donate at least €0.50 to Flying Angels, a charity that flies sick children abroad for treatment. You then get a sticker and stick it on the pesto jar.

The pesto is scanned in a special x-ray machine before being allowed on board.

Of course, I had to test it out myself. I bought two jars – one traditional Genovese pesto and one with pistachios – and made the €0.50 donation for the sticker.

However, I quickly learned that only traditional Genovese pesto qualifies for the exemption.

Despite being branded as Genovese, my pistachio pesto was confiscated by security, even though the shop assistant back in the city centre had assured me it was allowed. A frustrating lesson learned.

Adding insult to injury, I later discovered that airport shops past security were selling the exact same pistachio pesto – at a staggering €15 for a 250g jar. No, thank you.

Still though, Genoa, in my eyes, is the most underrated city in Italy. There is so much to do and the weather is always amazing. When we visited this month it was 16C at times and I was walking around in a t-shirt.

You can easily fly to Genoa from Stansted Airport. We paid £14 per person for a one-way ticket. The flight takes around two hours. I highly recommend going even just for a weekend.

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