New York City is probably only second to Italy itself when it comes to the best Italian food in the world. Though most people in this city flock to their favorite Italian restaurant in search of high-carb, saucy and cheesy comfort foods, many don’t realize there’s another side to Italian food. In the rustic Italian countryside, you’ll find a much simpler approach to food: veggie-forward, minimalist salads and lightly seasoned cuts of meat and fish. But don’t worry, you don’t need a flight to Italy to try it; just head to Manducatis Rustica VIG in Long Island City, Queens.
I popped into Manducatis Rustica VIG on a sunny afternoon with a friend. The eatery’s owner, Gianna Cerbone, a third-generation resident of Long Island City, greeted us with a boisterous hug and smile like we were longtime friends. Despite being in the middle of preparing a catering order, she held a conversation with us while doing a minimum of 100 other things, simultaneously insisting that we take a seat. The seamless chaos of it all instantly made me feel like I had just arrived at my nonna’s house for Sunday supper.
Kaitlyn Rosati
Cacio e pepe at Manducatis Rustica VIG in Long Island City, Queens. (Kaitlyn Rosati)
Almost immediately after we were seated in the brick-exposed dining room adorned with photos by the late Tony Vaccaro, we received some fresh bread. Shortly thereafter came a colorful panzanella salad, also known as “bread salad” since it’s typically made with cubed day-old bread. It was bursting with heirloom tomatoes, charred onions, balsamic vinegar reduction, and topped with apples appears. As I took a bite, I caught on to some herbs mixed throughout: mint, basil and oregano.
While scarfing my crunchy bread salad, another colorful plate of vegetables appeared, this time, in pops of green and a pink-purple hybrid that can only be attributed to beets. The dishes at Manducatis Rustica VIG are bright and simple, debunking the myth that all Italian cuisine must leave you in a food coma. The plating incorporates some humble techniques like a spoon smear of sauce and creating height thanks to stacked layers. Overall, the initial comfort of being in my family’s house continued to come through, which is by design.
“I don’t want to be a five-star restaurant or a Michelin-star restaurant,” Gianna said. “I want to stay in a business where customers have a place to call home.”
Kaitlyn Rosati
Calamari dorati at Manducatis Rustica VIG. (Kaitlyn Rosati)
Though it such a vegetable-forward establishment, the heart wants what it wants, so I ordered the calamari dorati, or fried calamari. At Manducatis Rustica VIG, even the calamari comes with vegetables — this time a side of light, crunchy sweet potato chips.
While we could’ve stopped there, my friend and I decided to split a main dish. We opted for the rack of lamb, which sat sneakily atop a bed of roasted carrots, accompanied by a sweet potato puree and some roasted brussels sprouts. The tenderness of the lamb with a nice charred exterior let me know that Manducatis Rustica does meat just as well as veggies, and had me planning my return to try their Italian steak frites made with Pat LaFrieda beef.
Kaitlyn Rosati
Rack of lamb at Manducatis Rustica VIG. (Kaitlyn Rosati)
If you want the red sauce pastas and pizzas you’re used to, you can certainly opt for that here, too. Whether it’s bucatini all’amatriciana (one of the few restaurants I’ve seen stateside that makes a proper one), cacio e pepe with mushrooms or Penne Mama G’s — made with “Mamma’s Famous Sauce” — the pasta dishes here are guaranteed to warm your heart.
Kaitlyn Rosati
Gelato at Manducatis Rustica VIG in Queens. (Kaitlyn Rosati)
While we’re on the subject of cold, New York is starting to reach some fiery temperatures, so if you’re looking for a scoop of homemade gelato, Manducatis Rustica VIG is here to serve. You don’t need to dine in to enjoy it, as there’s a small takeout window dedicated to satisfying your sweet tooth. But I wouldn’t be doing my job if I didn’t encourage you to experience Manducatis Rustica VIG from start to finish.
- Address: 46-35 Vernon Blvd, Queens, N.Y. 11101
- Phone: (718) 937-1312
- Hours: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays; Wednesday-Thursday 4 p.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 4 p.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.
- Prices: Le Insalate $15-$17; Pizze $14-$20; Antipasti $15-$22; Carne & Pesci $26-38; Primi $24-$26; Contorni $6-$9; Bambini Menu $13-$14
- Takeout and delivery available; reservations accepted.
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