I tested supermarket mature cheddars… truly sensational winner tasted just like a popular dessert – and was cheapest too

WHEN it comes to Cheddar, our taste is finally maturing. Milder blocks of the cheese have long been our bestsellers but UK retailers have seen a surge in sales of extra mature.

Figures from supermarket Tesco showed a 25 per cent increase in demand for its strongest varieties during the past 12 months.

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But which supermarket version really cuts it? One man who certainly knows his cheddar is cheesemaker Alex James.

Here the Blur Bassist, founder of the annual Big Feastival and curator of Britpop Wines, tastes extra mature cheese and gives his verdict.

Sainsbury’s Extra Mature Cheddar 400g (Strength 5), £3.15, 79p/100g

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INVENTED by monks in a cave, perfected by scientists and now made in vast Willy Wonka-esque factories, “block” cheddar, as it’s known in the trade, is ridiculously good value.

Around 100 grams will give you a really generous, indulgent-sized chunk to serve with a ploughman’s.

And that would cost you just 79p with this Extra Mature from Sainsbury’s. I struggle to think of anything that 79p would be better spent on.

This is a rock-solid, good-looking strong cheese with plenty of spring-oniony zip.

It’s crying out for a classic crusty bread roll, a fat pickled onion and a glass of ice-cold beer in the spring sunshine.

Rating: 4/5.

Asda British Extra Mature Cheddar 400g (no strength given), £3.14, 79p/100g

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WHAT makes Cheddar different from other cheeses is that the curd is cut into little pieces which are then compressed back together.

You want a nice tight curd in an extra mature variety but this one is a bit loose and the texture’s a bit squishy for cheeseboard duties.

If you want to serve it as it comes, it could do with perking up, retro-canape style, with slices of fresh pineapple.

I’d recommend grating a little pile, chucking it in a mug, microwaving it until it’s nice and gooey and then slavering it all over a piping-hot jacket potato.

Give it plenty of pepper and maybe a side of pickled gherkins.

Rating: 2/5.

Co-op Extra Mature Cheddar 400g (Strength 4), £3.55, 89p/100g

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AT the annual World Cheese Awards, judges are asked to consider three key factors of entries: appearance, taste and texture.

I found the texture of this one a bit on the rubbery side. But it was still far from a disaster to taste alongside plenty of sharp piccalilli punch.

Texturally, it would be great oozing on top of toast or a crispy crumpet.

With cheese, nothing melts quite like Cheddar and while extra mature and vintage varieties are great on a cheeseboard, this one is ideal for warming up.

Don’t write off mild Cheddars completely, especially if, like me, you are a liquid cheese fan as they melt the best and cost the least.

Rating: 3/5.

M&S British Extra Mature Cheddar 350g (Strength 6), £2.80, 80p/100g

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M&S does have an exceptionally well-curated cheese section.
In fact, I’d say it’s the best on the high street, and it’s also incredible value for money.

This is a truly sensational extra mature Cheddar – it would draw a crowd at a cheese competition.

It tastes like tucking into a sticky toffee pudding. It’s like enjoying your cheese course and your dessert simultaneously.

I’d have a big wodge of it with port or a cider brandy. Or both maybe – the possibilities are endless.

When you’ve got a cheese this good, you’ve got a party waiting to happen.

Absolutely magnificent maturity, it’s unusual and the cheapest to boot.

Rating: 5/5.

Tesco Finest Extra Mature Cheddar
350g (Strength 4), £3.80, £1.09/100g

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OOF! This is a good-looking cheese. You can see complex salts crystallizing out of the curd which is enough to get any cheese geek’s pulse racing.

Even when you’re comparing cheeses in the same category, it never fails to surprise me how different they can all taste.

Especially as all cheeses contain just four ingredients: Milk, rennet, salt and microbial cultures. Some Cheddars are now made with cultures traditionally used in continental cheeses such as Comte, which can bring a really satisfying sweetness.

This one has that sweet depth. It’s got a huge amount of heft.

I’d have it drizzled with honey, in a bacon sandwich, with a glass of champagne.

Rating: 4/5.

Lidl Deluxe Extra Mature Cheddar 250g (Strength 5), £2.29, 92p/100g

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CHAMPAGNE has to be made in that French region, while Cornish pasties have to be made in Cornwall, but Cheddar can be made anywhere in the world.

And while it was invented in a cave in Somerset, it was the Australians who perfected the art of mass-producing the ancient recipe.

You’d think the fact that anyone can copy that recipe and call it Cheddar would be a gift for the discount retailers who love a dupe.

But this 18-month aged extra mature from Wales is way off the pace.

We take Cheddar seriously and expect decent value. So this pricey “Deluxe” option is a real disappointment.

It needs a massive pile of pickle to rescue it.

Rating: 1/5.

Aldi Specially Selected West Country Cheddar 350g (Strength 6), £3.29, 94p/100g

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THOUGH this has certainly got something to say for itself, it is not as pleasing as the Sainsbury’s block, which is practically half the price.

The fact that large-scale distributors can now source their Cheddars from all over the world makes for a very strong field.

This is the most expensive offering, and for me it’s a long way from the best. But this extra mature is not a total catastrophe and still provides plenty of zippy notes.

It would be best eaten with some sliced apple – a fruit which is great with pretty much any fromage and particularly good on a cheeseboard.

Rating: 1/5.