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I visited one of Europe's most underrated cities – it's such a pretty hidden gem


Germany is not necessarily a place that springs to mind when people discuss taking a city mini-break or weekend getaway.

Its Christmas markets are popular but, given the number that now exist across UK cities, taking a flight to drink mulled wine and munch on bratwurst doesn’t have the same allure it once did.

Perhaps it is that visiting Prague or Budapest from Britain sounds more exotic or cheaper, as those two cities tend to headline adverts from budget airlines when selling holidays to European destinations.  

But as I discovered during a recent trip to Germany the country can be just as competitive in terms of price and considerably easier to get to than the depths of Eastern Europe.

Of the places I visited one undoubtedly stood above all others: Cologne.

Best known for its towering two-spired cathedral, which is the most visited landmark in Germany, there is a lot more to the city on the banks of the Rhine than this majestic example of Gothic architecture – which, let’s not get it wrong, is a truly breathtaking sight.

Easily reachable by plane, if you fancy a short flight, or train, for those seeking a more leisurely journey, it has a variety of attractions to serve groups of all types.

For those seeking the authentic cosy German beer hall experience the cobbled streets around Heumarkt and Alter Markt in the Old Town deliver the picture postcard experience whatever the weather.

Dimly lit with square framed windows and twisting wooden bars, the atmosphere is as friendly and festive as you’ll find anywhere. Smiling bar staff refill small glasses of local beer Kölsch without being asked and when they run up the bill at the end it costs a fraction of an evening out in Britain.

Heaped plates of crispy potatoes, juicy sauerkraut and sausage sold by the metre provides more than adequate lining for those wishing to indulge in a few lagers.

But there is far more to the city than the warm glow of the somewhat stereotypical beer hall.

In the summer months the restaurants that reach outwards towards the Rhine offer a relaxing spot for a refreshing soft drink or cup of coffee.

However, if you explore the neighbourhoods further away from the central knot of bars and cafes there are many hidden gems.

Areas like Ehrenfeld, Eigelstein and Agnesviertel have an atmosphere more comparable to the trendy parts of Berlin and have a slower pace.

You can watch locals pedal past on bikes whilst feasting on a generous Turkish breakfast platter or enjoy some sizzling Asian fusion in lush green surroundings.

Being able to shift between these zones provides a variety not many cities have.

Unlike Frankfurt or Munich, where the marching of men and women in suits with purposeful looks in their eyes stride through the city, not letting you forget these are places where business gets done, Cologne allows you to relax. 

It somehow manages, in the same way Berlin does, to be an immensely touristic destination but not feel like one. In contrast to some of Europe’s most iconic destinations Cologne is not a theme park for outsiders locals have abandoned.

So if you are planning a city break you can’t do much better than a trip to the banks of the Rhine.

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