For many people, having a skincare routine has become part of their daily lives. Moisturisers are used to prevent skin becoming dry, while SPF cream is applied to protect the skin from sun damage.
Certain other creams are also regularly applied specifically to prevent wrinkles and fine lines that come with ageing.
However, one expert has warned that doing so could be having the exact opposite effect to what we are trying to achieve. Skin doctor and cosmetic formulator at SkincarebyDrV, Doctor Vanita Rattan, explained how some skincare products can cause premature ageing.
This will be down to the ingredients used, according to Dr Vanita. She said: “Eye creams can contribute to the development of fine lines and wrinkles due to their formulation and ingredients.
“Many eye creams function as basic moisturisers, containing only one key active, such as niacinamide. Often, there is a smaller quantity of product, but eye creams are sold to consumers at a multiple of the cost.
“The reality is, eye creams are very difficult to formulate as there needs to be a delicate balance of high-strength actives to combat ageing concerns.
“These should ideally include collagen stimulators that penetrate the dermis, antioxidants to combat free radicals that could damage collagen, tyrosinase inhibitors to address dark circles, and humectants to lock in moisture and prevent under-eye shallowness with age.”
However, this isn’t the case with all the creams available to buy.
She continued: “Many eye creams on the market have a low percentage of weak actives, and therefore won’t do much for anti-ageing.
“As well as this, while moisture is essential, some companies compensate for the lack of oil glands around the eyes by incorporating rich oils into their formulations.
“This can weigh down the delicate skin tissue and can weaken elastin fibres, causing premature wrinkles.”
What to avoid
Dr Vanita warned against using creams that contain irritants, like essential oils and fragrances, as they can “damage the sensitive skin around the eyes and cause premature ageing”.
She said: “It’s important to avoid potent vitamin A derivatives and instead, select milder concentrations like 0.1 percent retinaldehyde and 0.1 percent retinol for your eye cream to prevent hypersensitivity.
“Finally, packaging also plays a part in how effective an eye cream can be. I would avoid eye creams packaged in a tub or container.
“Airless pump packaging for eye creams is superior due to its ability to preserve active ingredients by minimising exposure to air, preventing oxidation.
“This is crucial to stabilise sensitive active ingredients, increasing the efficacy of the eye cream and contributing to a longer shelf life. As airless pumps are in a sealed environment, there is also a reduced risk of contamination, and it is more hygienic.”
What we should be using?
Dr Vanita explained how at a younger age, the skin around the eyes tends to be more resilient. During this time, the skin naturally produces plenty of collagen, a protein that keeps it plump and elastic, minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
“So, addressing these concerns with an eye cream isn’t essential,” she said.
“Gentle cleansing twice a day, moisturiser and SPF is enough for hydration and preventative care. Using too much product, even if labelled ‘gentle,’ can lead to irritation, puffiness, or milia (small white bumps).
“As we get older, the skin around the eyes becomes thinner and weaker. This is because we lose 1% of our collagen production every year from mid 20s onwards, which can lead to loss of volume around the eyes and the development of wrinkles.”
At this point, it is “best” to incorporate an eye cream into your skincare routine including one that contains collagen, she said.
