At 11 miles long and only 69 square miles in total, Samothraki, or Samothrace, is truly a hidden paradise overlooked by tourists who flock to the more popular islands of Greece.
Instead of rubbing shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands of tourists a day on Santorini, why not head to this island renowned for its natural beauty including its waterfalls surrounded by greenery and rugged cliffs?
Unlike Greece’s tourist hotspots, Samothraki maintains a laid-back atmosphere with unspoilt beaches and quaint villages that have maintained their older traditions.
It is one of the most rugged Greek islands, meaning during ancient times it was of no political significance since it lacked natural harbours and was too mountainous for cultivation. Today, the island relies on fishing and tourism for its economy.
The first town you enter upon arrival is Kamariotissa, the port town, in a large protected bay, with its white buildings and church domes standing out against the dark background of Mount Saos.
Chora, the capital, sits at the foot of Mount Ai Georgias, therefore hidden from any pirate attack, at an altitude of 200 to 300 metres on the northwestern side of Samothraki.
Meanwhile, the small village of Therma, with around 70 inhabitants, can swell to a few hundred during the high season. It is bordered by two rivers which flow into waterfalls and natural pools and is surrounded by oak, chestnut and fruit trees.
One of the major attractions of Samothraki is its waterfalls and vathres which have become one of the trademarks of the island. The vathres are natural pools dug in rock over millennia by the many rivers that spring all over Mount Soas and flow towards the sea.
Of the approximately 60 rivers on the island, 13 have their springs at over 1000 metres. At 700 metres, the smaller branches join, forming spectacular gorges, only accessible via canyoning. Fonias and Gria Vathra are the best-known and most popular.
The island is also home to many ancient ruins, having been the home of the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, a site of important pre- and Hellenic religious ceremonies. Palaeopolis (“old city”) is an ancient city with ruins on the northern coast, built in the Cyclopean style and a lot of which remains today. The island became an international religious centre during the Roman and imperial periods.
The iconic Winged Victory of Samothrace statue, which recently featured in the closing ceremony of the Olympics, now in the Louvre, originated from the island and features on the island’s municipal seal.
For those seeking a beach holiday destination with soft white sand, Samothraki’s highlights lie elsewhere. That is to say, it is home to only one beach accessible by car with rough sand, Pachia Ammos, which is unsurprisingly the most popular. There are very few organised beaches with sunbeds and beach bars – the majority are wild and untamed, only accessible via boat or hiking through the mountains, including Vatos beach.
Temperatures in August hover around 30C with warm seas.
The modern port town of Kamariotissa now provides ferry access to and from points in northern Greece including Alexandroupoli and Myrina and there is no commercial airport.
In 2019, an article estimated that the number of goats outnumbered humans by 15 to one, which really showcases the rural and remote nature of Samothraki. This has, however, resulted in unwanted erosion due to overgrazing.
Fonias Gorge, on Tripadvisor, was described by one as a “beautiful place and very impressive waterfalls”. Another said: “Amazing scenery, ice cold water, plenty of waterfalls and natural pools. Definitely worth the trek. If you’re brave enough to go all the way up to the springs (πήγες) you will be rewarded by natural water slides.”
One visitor to the Sanctuary of the Great Gods described it as a “mesmerising ancient complex”, “one of the most impressive ancient sites we have ever visited. And we have been to many.)”
