The atmosphere in the colder months on Greece’s most famous island is a world away from that which is experienced by the hordes of tourists who descend on the 29-square-mile island during the summer.
Seventy-five-year-old Maria Antypa, a lifelong Santorini resident, stands in Kato Fira, near Santorini’s iconic white chapel of Agios Minas – an area that is nearly impossible to stand in and admire the breathtaking view during the summer.
“It’s rare to see the water without big ships. Look at how beautiful our sea is,” she said, pointing to the uninhabited island of Nea Kameni within the flooded caldera, according to ekathimerini.
Maria, who grew up in Santorini’s old port, Gialos, once knew an entirely different island – when neighbours were able to gather and listen to music.
Today, she is one of Fira’s few remaining residents, living in a neighborhood dominated by short-term rentals. She no longer understands the tourists’ languages, rarely exchanges greetings and has no one to share her morning coffee with.
She said she feels like a stranger in her own hometown, but does enjoy a daily walk up to the Cathedral of St John after the end of summer now the crowds have disbanded.
This is not a unique feeling on the island – many locals and long-time visitors share Maria’s nostalgia for the old Santorini and are now seeking experiences away from the most crowded spots.
October has now been named as the ideal time to visit – when charter flights and ferry passengers decrease and accommodations cost as much as 25% less than in the peak season.
Although cruise ships are still a constant – over 100 arrivals were expected in October – visitors can avoid peak hours and crowded spots to discover the island’s quiet charm in places still cherished by locals.
This year, the Citizens of Oia Cultural and Development Association hosted a festival at one of Santorini’s most hidden spots – the small church of Agios Konstantinos, which sits below the Monastery of Kyra Panagia in Baxedes, Oia.
However, they scheduled the festival – which features live music and local food – a month later than usual, after the tourist season had eased, to allow more locals to attend.
Over 400 people gathered, according to ekathimerini, but there were no tourists – only locals and a few in-the-know Greek and foreign guests.
“We want to keep this tradition alive – we’ve always celebrated this way – and give residents a chance to gather and enjoy their island,” said Christos Markozanes, the association’s vice president.
“From May until now, they’ve been working nonstop.”
According to the Santorini Hoteliers Association, the island had no short-term rentals in 2014, but by 2022, nearly 3,000 properties were available, with a total of 11,800 beds.
“The problem occurs in July and August when cruise ships arrive simultaneously,” explained Antonis Pagonis, president of the Santorini Hotel Association. “You have 10,000 people on the island at once, causing congestion at Athinios port, with long lines for buses and the cable car. We hope the new berth allocation system will improve the situation next year.
“In any case, you can’t claim that an island closed for four months suffers from overtourism,” he continued, noting that this year’s season is projected to end with a 15% decrease in occupancy and a 20% drop in revenue. “It’s absurd for an island to be ‘full’ with empty beds.”
